zante zakynthos 8: porto zorro / roma / gerakas beaches, tranakas bakery, wine & roses tsilivi

more adventures out on our 125 today . decided to do the south eastern peninsula today and visit a few places . boy was the whole place rammed down there , first week of august it was crazy busy ! firstly porto zorro , parked up , saw the beach and got off ! too much , it was heaving ! looked nice tho …

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so decided on elsewhere when we stumbled on a nice looking bakery called TRANAKAS . got a ham and cheese pie [lol] , tasty ! 2 euro i think it was . everything was so fresh from there

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we then made our way down to banana beach … again , rammed … so we left !


so we went to gerakas beach , thought it would be quiet being a turtle beach … wrong ! we pulled up and two huge car parks had hundreds of cars in and at breaking point , so we simply did a u-turn and left without stopping ! i had an idea of a junction i had spotted at a x-roads earlier might lead us somewhere a bit more off the radar . so we ended up following the road to PORTO ROMA . we ended up here for a few hours in a skinny strip of sand and very few people . a lovely peaceful afternoon in the end . shoreline had a lot of old washed up seaweed at one end , but it was clean and natural . quite a few boulders in the sea too around the shoreline , but rather that than sitting on top of other people😉

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after here we needed some food so ended up in an unknown named restaurant where stuffed vine leaves where the highlight . lovely landscaped restaurant not near anywhere , but i guess the nearest places would be the bakery i mentioned earlier and the banana beach turnoff , right on a sharp bend .

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back in tsilivi that night we went for another visit to wine & roses . excellent again . stuffed peppers and tomatoes , and stifado i think it was that i had . mmm

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zante zakynthos 7: shipwreck beach, Monastery of St. George Kremnon, porto vromi, base bar, a yard of the taste

after a couple of days lounging on the beach it was time for the bike again , do some stuff ! shipwreck beach was the main event today , or rather the cliffs above shipwreck beach . its up on the north west coast of zante . its a pretty spectacular view hundreds of feet up on the cliffs . there is a viewing platform we qued for over half an hour to get on , but the best view was hanging over the gravelly cliff face a bit higher up [if youre brave / stupid enough … like me lol ] . considering its one of the most popular things to do in zante , they really could make this so much better , rather than a platform that only one couple at a time can realistically go on for a photo . maybe when they place the proposed ‘new’ wreck there they will update this as there isnt that much of the original boat left now its all rotted and rusted into the sea which cant be good either .



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check out the video > click :

after here we stopped at the monastery a bit further on , Monastery of St. George Kremnon 1508 . considering its age its well preserved . outside there are large bells on the tree plus a well , and a hot looking donkey . inside is their ‘safe space’ , a fortified tower inside the high compound walls .

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check out the video > click :

after leaving here it wasnt too much of a journey to visit another small cove on the west coast [similar to porto limnionas and port roxa i blogged a couple of posts back] . maybe a 20 minute or so drive perhaps . again , amazing driving roads over the mountains via the hairpins and onto the twisting west coast sheer cliff face roads [as in the first picture below] . this one is called PORTO VROMI . the cove is a tiny place , split into two parts as you will see in pics or video . there isnt a lot here , but the half we went to had an overpriced mobile canteen for light refreshments . fair play tho , they take all the tourists rubbish away . i suggest take your own food if you want more than chips or a can of lemonade . we swam way out along the peninsula and got a great view of both coves while keeping our eye out for boats !

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check out the video > click :

we were starving after the swimming and shipwreck/monastery rambling so decided to head over to the east coast to a place id seen on the internet and do some sun rays and food , passing random sights such as abaondoned cars , eathquake ruins , football pitches and beekeepers hives .

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its a place called SHOESTRING on the east coast , but when we got there about 4 oclock it was just finishing up , its a daytime place that closes early . looked good actually , but no veggie stuff so unusure we would have stayed anyway . maybe next time . cool place and great location .

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so we jumped back on the bike and went to a place alongside the river in alykes . its a local taverna we checked out the menu on previously , and was busy with locals too . food looked great so we took a ride there . its called PAVADOSIAKO . i had village sausage ,  mrs robster had stuffed vine leaves . painfully slow service and a lot of people were frustrated , however we both wished we had a chance to return for a proper evening meal as the food was tasty and everyones meals looked very nice at their tables . DSC01288 DSC01289 DSC01290 DSC01291 DSC01292 DSC01293 DSC01294 DSC01295 DSC01296 DSC01297 DSC01307 DSC01308 DSC01312

that evening we decided to go back to zakynthos town

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after trawling several restaurants and not finding what we wanted we decided to just go back to a yard of the taste . when somethings so good why not ! chicken for me , vegan pie for her ! see previous blog entry for the full menu . DELICIOUS , BEST IN ZANTE !!

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and after all that food it was a small walk off round the streeets past the lights , the curiosity shops , pomegranates and graffiti , before hitting BASE BAR , pretty much the coolest bar in zante town with international dj’s on like culoe de song , anane vega etc … proper house music .

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finally a recap of the route we took earlier today to the west coast


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zante zakynthos 6: tsilivi beach, a yard of taste restaurant zakynthos town, barrage club house music

spent the day on tsilivi beach , watched the football on the screens in tsilivi centre , then went into zakynthos town for our evening meal . you see some amazing boats in zante , particularly in zakynthos town . heres a couple from tsilivi beach including “fair lady” from southampton uk . turn up the music , 35* here on the beach in the shade . blistering !

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A YARD OF THE TASTE in zakynthos town – easily the best food we had on our holiday , ended up eating here 3 times . quality food , shabby chic interior , they cater for all tastes and vegan / vegetarian organic food is a speciality . try and get the woman owner to serve you vegan diners , she loves helping you choose . hands down … THE BEST . the only tiny thing was the waiters were really rushed at peak times could do with another member of staff , but hey this is knitpicking for faults now . 10/10 . must visit , easy to find 1 minute walk from the main square at the end of the harbour .

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heres their menu

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and here is the millefeuille with walnuts and pomegranates [i think it was] , while i had pork chops .

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nom nom !!!

after here it was pre drinks in town then off to BARRAGE CLUB in argassi . this is a world famous house music club . there are about 5 big clubs on the argassi waterfront . while all the tourists go to laganas people in the know head here , far away from the 18-30 shots of bomba .

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what a great club …. top dj’s and music , good crowd and venue , and an absolutely boomin sound system  . perfect !  #housemusic

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zante zakynthos 5: tsilivi beach, mango bar, mojito bar, barracuda bar, wine & roses restaurant, relax taverna

spent the day on tsilivi beach today . walked along the beach to the harbour end , hot work in midday sun! we planned to spend the day in hte next bay but the shoreline was skinny and the beach was rammed. u-turn !


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VIDEO – click play

after our adventures last couple of days we wanted to give back the bike and let loose with a few mythos today … as you do ! here are 3 cool n funky places located on the end of the beach , aimed more towards the younger end of tsilivi crowd instead of family , sort of beach bar / lounge / night club venues , taking turns once a week with late night parties . its not laganas by a long way , thank god !


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VIDEO – click play

BARRACUDA BAR , and they did a mean home made burger too !

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VIDEO – click play

and in the middle of the bay RELAX TAVERNA for light snacks

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that night we decided to visit a place called wine & roses . probably one of the best services we had . and food was fresh and home made . cannot fault this place at all , no wonder its packed out every night with such great owners and waiters . plenty of local vino and mythos ,  plus cocktails on the house too … bonus ! if at tsilivi 3 way central junction walk 100m up the hill its on the left by the kiddies micro quad track . i had kokkinisto , a baked dish with red meat and tomato base with cheese and rice sized pasta pieces . i think the mrs had vegan briam but cant remember for sure


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zante zakynthos 4: porto limnionas / roxa, pups thrown in rubbish, courser chinese, gyri village

adventures on a bike – if you like riding or driving , zantes roads are great ! quiet , a good road surface in most places , visually breathtaking with insane mountain hairpins dropping into coves , old eathquake ruins meets immacualte stone houses , blistering hot bays rising to cool and cloudy mountain tops high up in the clouds . so much to see and really green too as you travel thru endless woods .

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this is porto limnionas , a tiny blue inlet in the middle of the west coast . theres good ‘jump in points’ , freezing cold caves , aqua blue water …. and quite a few people peak season . with one small taverna at the top its a brilliant day trip . in the distance one person has a caravan perched on the cliff face under a canopy from this blistering sun …what a spot😉


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taverna porto limnionas with its lanscaped cliff face and tasty food .


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nearby is an almost identical place called porto roxa . i preferred it here as it was less busy . i can see why limnionas is most popular however as there are more places to sit . neither place has a beach or anything , its basically sitting on concrete slabs or gravelly bits of hillside rock or anywhere you can . roxa is a bit more of a small working harbour, where limnionas is just an inlet . there are two places to eat at porto roxa . both places have car parking .

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when we where on our way back home we went back over the mountain pass at gyri . as we went thru it we saw a tiny red door with a sign on it [as in below video of village ride] and u-turned back to have a beer . its next to the church bell tower on a small square in the centre . we sat under the grape vines with the hosts kitten , the only people in ‘our’ rooftop sanctuary . try and find this place , lovely woman who runs it too , i think shes a secret hippie as this place is a garden cafe straight out of goa , but didnt speak much english so convo was limited sadly . she even brought a freshly plucked bunch of grapes to have with our beers . perfect moment .

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on the way home we freewheeled halfway down the mountain from gyri for over 5 miles until we noticed 2 puppies next to a rubbish dumpster in the middle of nowhere . we stopped as something didnt seem right . on closer inspection one had its front paw snagged under its chin thru its collar and cuoldnt really walk . we freed it up and hung out for 5 minutes trying to work out whos they could be as they both had collars . the wife went and opened a large box nearby and found a third pup that appeared dead . she burst into tears and walked away so i opeend the roped box and saw it wasnt dead yet we could save it . these pups , riddled with lice and fleas , had been thrown with the rubbish and left to die . i dont know why one hadnt managed to escape and two did . the one in the box didnt have a collar either , mysterious . the wife ran to a local house and asked for water [turned out owner later said to interpreter she thought it was for my mrs as she didnt speak english lol, thought she was nuts and desperate!!!]. we managed to get the pup to drink some off my palm and fingers down its mouth but it was so poorly it couldnt raise its head and its eyes were rolled into the back of its head , practically dead .

we had two fish we got from porto roxa we where taking home for the local cats and we boned them and fed them to the livlier two they ate the lot , starving ! it really was horrific to find animals like this first week of august in 35* heat . what kind of person does this ? occasional passing people started to stop as 2 tourists where sitting on the road and one woman openeed a big bag of dog biscuits and fed the two pups . we tried to find somewhere on our phones to take the sick one. a farmer on a tractor came by and said he would try a vet but after an hour he hadnt come back . by chance we got talking to a local and he gave us vague directions of an english woman who helped dogs . i left the wife and managed to locate her and she agreed for me to bring the sick one in . i raced back to get the wife and sick pup and we made it back to her [sue] , and while we returned again to get the other two she had given the sick one some tlc . within an hour she had it bathed , fed a honey solution and massged it . it actually had some life put back into it and was now alert , enough to open its eyes and focus on us . amazing . we left all three and she said she would try and find homes , result !

sue survives on donations and had about 40 dogs and 10 cats . she works non stop in the day then comes home to the crazy gang and works again all night . she pretty much works to support the animals so relies on donations . anyone who can help or raise support for her unselfish dedication im sure she would appreciate it . sadly since being home we found out a couple of days later the third pup died [gutted] , but the other two have made it , the white one has a home in zante , the brown one still hasnt been put up for adoption yet [so if youd like it give sue a message quick!] . its an easy process to get a dog to the uk so if anyone needs a zante bred dawg she [and the animals] would love your help😉

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the boxed they where left roped up in ;-(DSC00858

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after eating greek non stop we fancied a chinese after our apparent result saving the pups for a few hours that evening , so went to courser in tsilivi that had good tripadvisor reviews .  was pretty good too . beef crispy noodles and vegan fried rice were the mains

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route :

porto limnionas



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zante zakynthos 3: xigia beach, windmill, lighthouse , volimes , alykes , zakynthos town, taverna tsikoydia, after

rented a 125cc moped today , 20Euro a day . you can get a beaten 50cc for 15Euro or a 50cc , 125cc or 185cc quad for about 20/25/30Euro a day respectively. Our bike was new and mint condition and had a top box at the back which was handy for beach gear or helmet storeage. petrol was about 140Euro a litre . helmets compulsory but you can get away with no helmet in the quieter mountain and remoter backroads areas . laganas no chance theres cops everywhere there but none anywhere else .


We headed out to xigia beach which is a tiny bright blue sulphur and collagen laden bay you can swim in . or spa ! the water in this cove was the coldest by far of any beach . its a decent walk down steps and a steepish hill to the beach for 5 mins or so . theres a cafe at the top .

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note to girls you might want to remove your jewellery before going in . platinum and white gold goes dirty coppery coloured for a couple of days and i hadnt seen that mentioned anywhere before . stunning bay , aqua blue water on blackened rock face and sand and mostly pebbly beach . definite must do .

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space is a real premium here in august peak season 1pm . a daytripper boat even dropped anchor in the bay for 10 minutes with 50 bodies overboard into the water . its a great view as you leave too from the cliffs if heading further north


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on the northern most tip of the island is a lighthouse and windmill ,  driving along the coastal road with some spectacular views , cliffs , twisting and turning roads , tasty stone houses , a spa , and several other small beaches mostly offering the same boat trip you get everywhere … shipwreck , blue caves , sulphur beach etc . the roads are really quiet up north even considering its peak week and riding was brilliant and kept getting better in subsequent days wich i will blog soon . if you enjoy riding zante has some of the best roads ive driven for mountain harpins with views .

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then we went right up over the mountain tops to a sleepy , almost deserted town called volimes . as we crossed the mountains we drove thru the cold clouds as we hit the peak . they cooled you down nicely and it was badly needed at 37* in the shade .


its really unpoiled up in volimes with its tiny streets complete with a few stall sellers with olive oil and honey etc . we stopped for lunch , greek salad , gyro , courgettes,  aubergines , bread . very local and authentic with a warm welcome .we sat next to some of ther organic produce like tomatos melons etc , with a view opposite of the local blanket seller .

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DSC00634 DSC00638 DSC00633 DSC00642 DSC00643 as we left he insisted we take this . ive no idea what exactly it was – english was limited and my greek is non existent . a herb i guess . put it in the bikes box for good luck😉 two other couples eating also got a piece each .


we did the same route home in reverse , back over the mountains passing so many random things such as abandoned cars and buildings , a ‘trip’ of goats about 50 strong mostly with bells on – an cool audible experience as we switched off the engine and they walked alongside us cutting into the mountain thru gaps in the fence . we freewheeled down the mountain for ages with the bike engine off and the brakes struggling to slow us at times lol .


arriving at alykes beach for a couple of hours , the days are so long and the sun still roasting even till 7 and 8 oclock . quite a few poeple arrive at the beaches at 6pm when its cooler .

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total journey was about 15oklm . heres a basic route .

d3 map

while we have the bike we went into zaynthos town for the evening . we are just off the main square at the end of the port .



i had dried out lamb kleftiko , really average tourist muck , just this side of edible and cooked with no love from taverna tsikoydia . the mrs had gigantes beans which were tasteless and more oil than tomato , she sent it back it was rank . she only ordered it cos their street tout said yes we have vegan briam come in but the chef/waiter said we dont have it but we had already sat down and ordered drinks . wish we had left !!! the bread starter had tastless red puree stuff on probably derived from a tomato plant i guess . one millenium ago . we nicknamed taverna tsikoydia ‘sik taverna’ .

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after this the mrs was starving and needed something quick so she got a veggie burger from after on the harbour side , and we sank some mythos into the small hours . great day ! tons more to come , check back to this blog …


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yamas [cheers!]

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zante zakynthos 2: tsilivi beach zante, aris restaurant, taverna paradisos, two brothers mojito barracuda

first proper full day after travelling so we spent it on tsilivi beach getting some colour in us ! walked to the far end for a beer and snacks in “taverna paradisos” as it looked more local cuisine than the fast food joints next door . had some lovely skordalia [a potato and garlic based dip] with fresh bread . the tavena sits almost in the ocean and gets pretty busy . all the food looked excellent .

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next door are three party type beach bars / restaurants : barracuda , mojito and mango . relax is a small taverna further along .

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and along further to the quiet middle section of the beach. beach was pretty busy first week of august as you can imagine , so it was so good there is also an undeveloped section that is still relatively unspoilt .

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that evening we looked for some greek but to incl something for vegan too . first we grabbed a cocktail in a random place called two brothers which was pretty decent too

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while drinking we noticed next door had possibly the only sign in tsilivi saying vegetarian specials . its called “aris” and ended up being superb with great service and easily the nicest freshest homemade brown bread mini rolls all holiday . they came served with tzatziki . nom nom !DSC00579



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so 1 meat and 1 vegan [kleftiko and briam , cant remember now] . then desert to follow called Loukoumades (λουκουμάδες) . its similar to doughnuts or profiteroles , loukoumades are essentially fried balls of dough drenched in honey and sprinkled with cinnamon and crushed walnuts . OOSH !

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easy to find this place its opposite asian feast and next to two brothers bar


nearby is a quad bike track for toddlers, was funny watching the tots go ! also there was a equally small kitten nearby in the huge gravel fenced parking lot of rental place crying on its own . we bought some whiskas pouches and fed it and grabbed a bowl of water . it was too scared to come to us but really wolfed the food . we hoped its mother was nearby and after 30 minutes or so had to leave it . was so small , about 6 weeks . its a daily thing for us feeding various kittens and cats in greece .

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here is a video shot on tsilivi beach showing what youd expect to see first week of august 2016

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zante zakynthos 1: tsilivi , popeye’s , trenta nove , seacret , a319 airbus

flew into zante on an a319 , croatian islands and greek islands looked great , here is corfu and zante zakynthos D.Solonos airport arrival

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got to tom & john appartments , everything you need . booked it mostly for location to beach . £60 pn with the air con supplement



the beach is behind this end room


had some drinks at “seacret” , really nice place right in the middle of tsilivi bay

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later on did food at trenta nove , ok sandwhich , but lousy jacket and dry beans with no sauce !

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back to have a swim on our pool. it was after 5 so we ‘made some noise [lol]’ and picked some limes off the tree and had proper margaritas [not the box juice they intended on using!] .

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and then did dinenr at popeye’s where the lamb kleftiko was the best i had all holiday

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2016 – d13 – go with the flow , turtles , flor do mar , pastry palace, truck crushes cat nitemare

the anjuna fountain/lake

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groundhog day at the hospital nearst anthonys hospital … hardly a holiday ! anyway shes looking a bit better anyway from the drips . been doing lots of tests on her , the hospital has been great actually . and considering she has had about 10 nurses , several doctors , private room with sat tv etc and all the meds etc its peanuts really . its by anjuna/vagator petrol pump .

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needed a break so said to the mrs im off to morjim to see if i can do or organise a hot air baloon ride . not for her that , so thought i might as well do my best to kill myself and have a bed next to her in hospital as we hit powerlines or crash land lol . i know they launch one place in north goa on the chapora river at morjim , and one in south goa as it said on the website . set off on the bike and couldnt help stopping at the long established in goa “pastry palace” at morjim x-roads on the way . pastries and cakes just so good … AND CLEAN [very important right now haha] . hygiene rating definitely a 10😉

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and down the side of the chapora river passed flor do mar . was going to do this place this year but illness has kinda changed plans a bit .


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and onto morjim beach . one of our best times last in goa was definitely further along the coast releasing the turtles with the local authorities and celebs , so called into the turtle conservation place to see how they where doing this year . they had one of the turtles that had been killed , i guess in formaldehyde . didnt look fully grown tho . poor thing , but it was reasurring to see a few had nested and laid their eggs again up here , however they are sadly so few and far between nowadays in goa .

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looked all over for the hot air baloon place to no avail – they just dont set sail here according to the locals . another amazing piece of organisation from goa tourist board . pathetic really ! later back at the hospital i managed to blag the doctors to let me mrs out of a couple of hours so we could eat . did shamba last night for amazing food , so sticking with the same standard it was go with the flow .

on the way there on the bike we where behind a truck and it was horrific – we saw a cat run over by the truck on front of us . first it was the screams then we saw the poor thing come from under the wheels . i will spare the gory details as it still haunts me to this day , but we had to pull over for a while , it was soul destroying for us both . the mrs was in tears just coming out of hospital and seeing that it just couldnt get any worse . we are both huge cat nut jobs so tonite we hit rock bottom . i went back on my own leaving the mrs for a minute  to try and help the cat [or what was left of it] with some locals . poor soul , so unfair on the animals out here some of them dont half have a hard life . after about 20 minutes we carried on to GWTF . they used to be in anjuna , but moved to baga . the food here is amazing fine dining but it was difficult to enjoy it . . on arrival had to have a ret outside for 15 mins before going in , then i ordered a drink straight away . zero appetite after seeing that, we left it about 40 minutes before ordering food . over dinner we decided for the good of us both we need to leave north goa ASAP , we where on a bad roll , so weve decided to head to south goa for a totally clean start , earlier than we had anticipated and for the remainder of our holiday rather than just 5 days break . go with the flow , really was good service , restaurant and food  . dont know which id prefer , here or shamba last night . both excellent .

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only just realised looking back at that bill , they didnt charge us for starters . excellent food , take a visit , its now the #1 place on tripadvisor too .

heres a video of the anjuna lake fountain , driving thru morjim along the chapora river , a walk out onto morjim beach etc up to siolim fish market junction .


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2016 – d12 – typhoid / hospital, shamba restaurant anjuna fine dining – amazing ! tuk tuk

Tue 9 – day 12

Well hampi was a paid up non starter, mrs has been unwell on various pills and antibiotics for 8 days but things have really kicked off to another level , burning up on belly and head, seriously violent d&v, dehydration, fatigue and cramps. Doctor came out and immediately called a taxi … urrently in hospital on a drip with typhoid !! She hasnt eaten for 3 days and cant keep even fluid down. Her blood pressure was 83-53. So many people in anjuna are ill, literally everyone knows numerous casualties and the docs is packed out. One woman drove in with her daughter draped over the back of a bike while mrs robster was puking down the side of the docs. Take extra precautions out here its nasty.


often seen … never used . the old taxi meter !!!


I said last time im done with the filthy hygene out here , mrs really wanted to go back here whereas i was planning for cambodia or phillipines. She feels same now lying in hospital. Never have i had d&v every single time anywhere else in the world but Goa. We have a clean hotel, use alcohol gel, dont put hands in mouth, keep mouth shut in shower, shes vegan im often no meat and trying to avoid local chicken. I dont eat in shacks anymore and often go without food all afternoon, and after my day2 illness after a curry id given up eating indian food. It just isnt a holiday eating grilled corn, shakes and porridge etc anymore,  as nice as they are you get bored… enoughs enough now.. Been here 12 days and had one night out where we where both sort of ok ish. Ive only had several kingfishers and cocktails in 12 days. Pretty much zero clubbing. Goa pushes you to the limits of endurance at times😉

tuk tuk for one back to hotel …

Onwards and upwards … so after spending 2 hours at the doctors then 7 hours in the hospital i left the wife eating her allowed 1 slice of dry toast to do some fine dining [i know,  no shame haha!]. Shamba in anjuna is somewhere ive really been waiting to try out. They dont do that much vegan aimed dishes so while we have a “man down” i thought id visit here lol. Great service,  cool music, interesting menu and premium pricing. It was pork 3 ways but with mash as opposed the butterbean puree. 600r is the price, with 100 for the kingfisher ultra.

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Complimentary bread was served, fresh butter and true home baked bread which you can tell a mile away from the texture of it. Pork was delish and melted in my mouth. Its fine dining style so if you are coming to fill your greedy boots it isnt going to happen but the portions where perfect for me. The stuffed croquette was excellent too. The chef and head waiter both came to check everything was good. Went for the passion fruit desert to finish the evening [passion fruit seeds , meringue , ice cream , fruit sauce] . I felt really guilty eating such a meal with the wife laid up !!

Honestly without a shadow of a doubt knowhere in anjuna comes close to this place and ive done them all. All hail shamba the new king of anjuna. And disease free food too😉

menu :

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and then back to the hospital past anjuna water fountain lake to see the wife and tell her how delicious my amazing meal was . poor thing !!!


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