zante zakynthos 2: tsilivi beach zante, aris restaurant, taverna paradisos, two brothers mojito barracuda

first proper full day after travelling so we spent it on tsilivi beach getting some colour in us ! walked to the far end for a beer and snacks in “taverna paradisos” as it looked more local cuisine than the fast food joints next door . had some lovely skordalia [a potato and garlic based dip] with fresh bread . the tavena sits almost in the ocean and gets pretty busy . all the food looked excellent .

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next door are three party type beach bars / restaurants : barracuda , mojito and mango . relax is a small taverna further along .

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and along further to the quiet middle section of the beach. beach was pretty busy first week of august as you can imagine , so it was so good there is also an undeveloped section that is still relatively unspoilt .

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that evening we looked for some greek but to incl something for vegan too . first we grabbed a cocktail in a random place called two brothers which was pretty decent too

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while drinking we noticed next door had possibly the only sign in tsilivi saying vegetarian specials . its called “aris” and ended up being superb with great service and easily the nicest freshest homemade brown bread mini rolls all holiday . they came served with tzatziki . nom nom !DSC00579

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so 1 meat and 1 vegan [kleftiko and briam , cant remember now] . then desert to follow called Loukoumades (λουκουμάδες) . its similar to doughnuts or profiteroles , loukoumades are essentially fried balls of dough drenched in honey and sprinkled with cinnamon and crushed walnuts . OOSH !

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easy to find this place its opposite asian feast and next to two brothers bar

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nearby is a quad bike track for toddlers, was funny watching the tots go ! also there was a equally small kitten nearby in the huge gravel fenced parking lot of rental place crying on its own . we bought some whiskas pouches and fed it and grabbed a bowl of water . it was too scared to come to us but really wolfed the food . we hoped its mother was nearby and after 30 minutes or so had to leave it . was so small , about 6 weeks . its a daily thing for us feeding various kittens and cats in greece .

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here is a video shot on tsilivi beach showing what youd expect to see first week of august 2016

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zante zakynthos 1: tsilivi , popeye’s , trenta nove , seacret , a319 airbus

flew into zante on an a319 , croatian islands and greek islands looked great , here is corfu and zante zakynthos D.Solonos airport arrival

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got to tom & john appartments , everything you need . booked it mostly for location to beach . £60 pn with the air con supplement

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the beach is behind this end room

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had some drinks at “seacret” , really nice place right in the middle of tsilivi bay

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later on did food at trenta nove , ok sandwhich , but lousy jacket and dry beans with no sauce !

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back to have a swim on our pool. it was after 5 so we ‘made some noise [lol]’ and picked some limes off the tree and had proper margaritas [not the box juice they intended on using!] .

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and then did dinenr at popeye’s where the lamb kleftiko was the best i had all holiday

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2016 – d13 – go with the flow , turtles , flor do mar , pastry palace, truck crushes cat nitemare

the anjuna fountain/lake

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groundhog day at the hospital nearst anthonys hospital … hardly a holiday ! anyway shes looking a bit better anyway from the drips . been doing lots of tests on her , the hospital has been great actually . and considering she has had about 10 nurses , several doctors , private room with sat tv etc and all the meds etc its peanuts really . its by anjuna/vagator petrol pump .

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needed a break so said to the mrs im off to morjim to see if i can do or organise a hot air baloon ride . not for her that , so thought i might as well do my best to kill myself and have a bed next to her in hospital as we hit powerlines or crash land lol . i know they launch one place in north goa on the chapora river at morjim , and one in south goa as it said on the website . set off on the bike and couldnt help stopping at the long established in goa “pastry palace” at morjim x-roads on the way . pastries and cakes just so good … AND CLEAN [very important right now haha] . hygiene rating definitely a 10😉

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and down the side of the chapora river passed flor do mar . was going to do this place this year but illness has kinda changed plans a bit .

WIDESCREEN SHOT [click]

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and onto morjim beach . one of our best times last in goa was definitely further along the coast releasing the turtles with the local authorities and celebs , so called into the turtle conservation place to see how they where doing this year . they had one of the turtles that had been killed , i guess in formaldehyde . didnt look fully grown tho . poor thing , but it was reasurring to see a few had nested and laid their eggs again up here , however they are sadly so few and far between nowadays in goa .

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looked all over for the hot air baloon place to no avail – they just dont set sail here according to the locals . another amazing piece of organisation from goa tourist board . pathetic really ! later back at the hospital i managed to blag the doctors to let me mrs out of a couple of hours so we could eat . did shamba last night for amazing food , so sticking with the same standard it was go with the flow .

on the way there on the bike we where behind a truck and it was horrific – we saw a cat run over by the truck on front of us . first it was the screams then we saw the poor thing come from under the wheels . i will spare the gory details as it still haunts me to this day , but we had to pull over for a while , it was soul destroying for us both . the mrs was in tears just coming out of hospital and seeing that it just couldnt get any worse . we are both huge cat nut jobs so tonite we hit rock bottom . i went back on my own leaving the mrs for a minute  to try and help the cat [or what was left of it] with some locals . poor soul , so unfair on the animals out here some of them dont half have a hard life . after about 20 minutes we carried on to GWTF . they used to be in anjuna , but moved to baga . the food here is amazing fine dining but it was difficult to enjoy it . . on arrival had to have a ret outside for 15 mins before going in , then i ordered a drink straight away . zero appetite after seeing that, we left it about 40 minutes before ordering food . over dinner we decided for the good of us both we need to leave north goa ASAP , we where on a bad roll , so weve decided to head to south goa for a totally clean start , earlier than we had anticipated and for the remainder of our holiday rather than just 5 days break . go with the flow , really was good service , restaurant and food  . dont know which id prefer , here or shamba last night . both excellent .

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only just realised looking back at that bill , they didnt charge us for starters . excellent food , take a visit , its now the #1 place on tripadvisor too .

heres a video of the anjuna lake fountain , driving thru morjim along the chapora river , a walk out onto morjim beach etc up to siolim fish market junction .

 

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2016 – d12 – typhoid / hospital, shamba restaurant anjuna fine dining – amazing ! tuk tuk

Tue 9 – day 12

Well hampi was a paid up non starter, mrs has been unwell on various pills and antibiotics for 8 days but things have really kicked off to another level , burning up on belly and head, seriously violent d&v, dehydration, fatigue and cramps. Doctor came out and immediately called a taxi … urrently in hospital on a drip with typhoid !! She hasnt eaten for 3 days and cant keep even fluid down. Her blood pressure was 83-53. So many people in anjuna are ill, literally everyone knows numerous casualties and the docs is packed out. One woman drove in with her daughter draped over the back of a bike while mrs robster was puking down the side of the docs. Take extra precautions out here its nasty.

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often seen … never used . the old taxi meter !!!

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I said last time im done with the filthy hygene out here , mrs really wanted to go back here whereas i was planning for cambodia or phillipines. She feels same now lying in hospital. Never have i had d&v every single time anywhere else in the world but Goa. We have a clean hotel, use alcohol gel, dont put hands in mouth, keep mouth shut in shower, shes vegan im often no meat and trying to avoid local chicken. I dont eat in shacks anymore and often go without food all afternoon, and after my day2 illness after a curry id given up eating indian food. It just isnt a holiday eating grilled corn, shakes and porridge etc anymore,  as nice as they are you get bored… enoughs enough now.. Been here 12 days and had one night out where we where both sort of ok ish. Ive only had several kingfishers and cocktails in 12 days. Pretty much zero clubbing. Goa pushes you to the limits of endurance at times😉

tuk tuk for one back to hotel …

https://youtu.be/SKUD8YSUzT4

Onwards and upwards … so after spending 2 hours at the doctors then 7 hours in the hospital i left the wife eating her allowed 1 slice of dry toast to do some fine dining [i know,  no shame haha!]. Shamba in anjuna is somewhere ive really been waiting to try out. They dont do that much vegan aimed dishes so while we have a “man down” i thought id visit here lol. Great service,  cool music, interesting menu and premium pricing. It was pork 3 ways but with mash as opposed the butterbean puree. 600r is the price, with 100 for the kingfisher ultra.

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Complimentary bread was served, fresh butter and true home baked bread which you can tell a mile away from the texture of it. Pork was delish and melted in my mouth. Its fine dining style so if you are coming to fill your greedy boots it isnt going to happen but the portions where perfect for me. The stuffed croquette was excellent too. The chef and head waiter both came to check everything was good. Went for the passion fruit desert to finish the evening [passion fruit seeds , meringue , ice cream , fruit sauce] . I felt really guilty eating such a meal with the wife laid up !!

Honestly without a shadow of a doubt knowhere in anjuna comes close to this place and ive done them all. All hail shamba the new king of anjuna. And disease free food too😉

menu :

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and then back to the hospital past anjuna water fountain lake to see the wife and tell her how delicious my amazing meal was . poor thing !!!

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2016 – d11 – disco valley anjuna, jamies baga, samosa shacks sunsets & street stalls

Mon 8 – day 11

Rose garden anjuna for breakfast consisted of unripened hard avocado,  and a goan favourite – uncooked porridge (oats and hot milk). Clean and nice here but you really have to question a chefs ability if they cant cook porridge:-) and white toast , toasted for 7 seconds , another goan classic!

Spent the day at disco valley shack vagator. Surprisingly clean with smell free toilets ,  mirrors and soap. Shakes teas juices…but with all the illnesses around weve given up chancing food in these shacks.  Heres their menu

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and their location at the end of little vagator beach , where out of state manual workes kids played on the volcanic rocks on the beach

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disco valley live cam stream
https://bambuser.com/v/6087812

9bar has sprung into life for a sunset sessions, westbam ‘hold me back’ is a classic and booms down to the beach from their elevated position high on the cliff. Not heard music like this from there before,  really retro circa 89-90 era belgian nu beat stuff
https://bambuser.com/v/6087969

Mrs got a henna tattoo on the beach with the proper henna , a girl was offering 100 for a leg piece so she couldnt say no. She followed that up at asnath massage centre , still the best around at the top of little vagator cliffs . As we left the sun was setting beautifully at sunset point vagator on the cliffs ,where the car park and a row of small shops are .

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just further laong there is a small street food place that always has its local fans . i got some samosas and aloo buns but it was a bit much for the mrs dodgy stomach ! a huge pig was circling looking for the scraps from the food stall .

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Went to shamba last night but it was too late they where closing. Just been checking the menu for tonight and its not brilliant for veggie [mushrooms and goats cheese] . Plus shes vegan anyway and hates mushrooms. Really wanted to try this place too….oh well so we went to baba au rhum instead half a mile further on, again wasnt really anything for her .

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so we carried on a mile or two more and into baga to jamies . got to admit was a bit sceptical about the sausages , looked undercooked . pleased to say there where no repercussions from it tho from me . mrs got a plain pasta tho she really has no appetite . good service as usual here , and the place was packed out with brits , not a seat to be had . couldnt help thinking of the pig earlier as i chowed down on the sausages either !!

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canoes on the talipona river !!

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heres a 45 minute video of our adventure with 3 canoes down the talipona river

 

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2016 – d10 – elephant bar anjuna beach , all went a bit nuts on cocktails !

went to anjuna beach today

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heres their menu , its in the old xtreme sports bar in the middle of anjuna beach

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next door are cafe lilleput and sea horse shacks

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got pretty leathered on cocktails today lol , strawberry margaritaP1080007

this mojito is looking pretty consumed

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pina colada

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long island ice tea

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dont know what these where ….

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sat back , enjoyed the anjuna beach entertainment , pool , music , sellers , ate some snacks till the sun fell into the ocean ….

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2016 – d9 – anjuna beach , roma italian chapora , international animal rescue .

Really hazy horizon every day so far. Only had one clear sunset which was arambol. On anjuna beach, gone to busiest part in the middle. Its all out attack of the beach sellers today … bracelet no, hard skin no,  massage no, tattoo no, bongo no, fruit no, ice cream no , manicure no, henna no, threading no, soap ear no, fridge magnets no, selfie sticks go and die …… and just when you think youve seen off the incoming attacks from most sellers on this patch along comes a dog to pi55 on the back of your sunbed haha. … the wife chasing a rottweiller is always a laugh:-)

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VIDEO LINKS ;

Making a dirty place worse…. When your sitting on the beach watching a 50 something couple [who really should know better] just chucking their fags ends onto the sand. will probably pass thru untold dolphins fish and turtles over the next 25 years while it decomposes , and each butt adds 160 chemicals to our waters incl arsenic , lead and formaldehyde …  Dirty bstrds . However its good to see goa tourism employing teams of girls to pick up tourists rubbish off the beaches. God they dont half work hard in that heat too. I bet they earn no more than 100r a day. Said thanks to them for their hard work while we sat at elephant bar .

VIDEO LINK ;

Another team that works hard is “international animal rescue” who devote their time to care for the street animals in goa to . always a worthwhile donation . you can do this from your home to the charity , you dont have to be in goa . this one wears its IAR tag .

www.internationalanimalrescue.org

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Evenung meal did roma chapora again .Im so over being sick in goa and have given up eating curries or in local shacks with filthy hygeine . its veg ,  dont eat and stay hungry ,  or double safe places only now . So returned to Roma [opposite sakana] …  plain pizza for the sick wife whos still so ill , and pork chops and rosemary potatoes for me ….  like a true brit lol , chops chops chops ! didnt really rate them , it was mostly bone and fat. 400 for chops and salad , plus potatoes extra. just isnt right not having indian .

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2016 – d8 – little vagator, chapora fort sunset point, lucky shack, oltre marino, burger factory

Hung out down oltre marino little vagator. A couple of people from belgium had to ask at least 5 diff waiters for ‘grilled vegetables’ from their menu , it went on for over 20 minutes !  ‘Plate of grilled veg , nothing else’ was repeated several times to each waiter when they where asked for their order. It was a comedy act , each one apparently leaving with the order to send a new waiter out to ask another 10 times , all of us where in stitches on the beach . Some of the waiters are absolutely thick as 2 short planks, they ruin places repuations at times.

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Another example : we ordered 2 pinneapple strawberry avocado shakes at oltre marino . Instead of saying we have dont have that one , they used pinneapple , but skipped the avocado , and added some strawberry syrup and expected everything would be ok and we wouldnt notice ! This is a premium place taking the pi55 cos the italian owners arent in today .

My mate the donut seller is doing his usual deals on ozran/little vagator beach. He struck gold just now . On his return from his beach sweep along the bay he had 12 unsold donuts. I chased him and took one , and while buying a young russian girl ran up and said she wanted 11! A salesmans dream,  he sold the lot in one go striking gold. Loved seeing his pure joy when he thought he would have 12 unsold ones . He left extremely happy ! his donuts are jam or chocolate , and so fresh . 40 or 50 i think he charges , probably makes 20r a donut or something . this is him last time didnt get  apic this year but he always carries the same tray and same type of clothes , shirt n pants .

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Antares , the new shack on little vagator beach that got built closed season has some cool grooves playing , but only 2 clients in the whole place again , empty every day . the reason is prices in here … the menu has 250r blue ribband gin shots which are 6r cost in the supermarket , probably 3r wholesale . some mark up ! ive seen their facebook page and it is solely aimed at the mumbai princess crowd with their sunday buffet at 1500 a head . buffet food sucks its the easiest way to get sick eating food thats cold and has had flies on . just dont get this place . want to use this place but refuse to on principle ! i can buy that bottle of gin for 170r for 750ml . they want 250r for 30 ml !!!!  just NO

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We left oltremarino for a walk , and on the way back opted for lucky shack for afternoon tea:-)

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After the beach we headed to Chapora fort for sunset,  god this place is a magnet for the indian tourist now. Must have been easily over a hundred people,  usually lucky if theres 5 in previous years . along with all this development and influx of domestic tourist theres the usual drinks food stalls … plus a random hat stall ? Just weird . Give em an inch theyll build a shop… With increased visitors to chapora brings more filthy littering out of state idiots … shame all these out of state tourists dump so much rubbish all over the fort and smash all their beer bottles by the hundreds , theres glass literally everywhere . Dirty bstrds

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after you have walked up the hill to get to the fort youre rewarded with fantastic views both north and south , plus inland towards mapusa and the ghats , and west towards the sunset over the arabian sea . search ‘chapora fort’ on right hand side box of this blog , youll see more entries with videos showing more details of what you can see [anjuna , vagator , morjim , ashvem , chapora river etc …

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this is where vagator friday night market is held , near thalassa vagator

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and this is the new building W HOTEL , at the bottom of chapora fort . at the base of the entrance road they have built an enormous white modern structure , its huge !!!  In chapora?  seems weird , almost out of place located in what we call ‘skid row’ AKA chapora . if you hang down chapora town centre its all bikers , pot heads , travellers , etc etc , the most low budget scruffy grunge town in goa by far . i like it here for an hour or two , but its totally opposite to this modern swanky posh place . it has a large circular drive up to the roof level , and huge wooden framed roof canopy almost like a helipad , with pure white walls.  its not far from being complete and open asap .

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The mrs is feeling really sick today , getting worse day by day , something seems wrong despite taking 6 days of meds now . so it was takeaway for one at burger factory anjuna for a burger [sorry cows!] . they do a few killer veggie ones the mrs would have loved to try again [bean corn , spinach mushroom , another one cant remember] . they make them fresh so you can have whatever in the patttie . plus loads of meat varieties for us carnivores . absolutely massive things . i had bbq beef bacon cheese . nice seeing these guys go from a tiny hole in the wall a few years back to a cool little arty joint with a fab chandelier made out of jars [see it to marvel at its effective simplicity] . the front of a push bike has been recycled into a wall light . such clean fresh tasty burgers and get my vote every time . i know this tan calf ive bonded with on little vagator will smell death on me tomorrow when i see it ! sorry cows ;-(

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chapora fort video link :

 

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2016 – day 7 – arambol sunset drummers , arambol , ‘funky night’ club , goa

What a brilliant day , it went on and on into the small hours of the morning …. Arambol we where in mostly,  absolutely magic! But first we started the day in anjuna with breakfast in ‘eatopia’ , spent 305r total on beans on toast twice , scrambled egg , coffee , tea . was good too and decent service . been here several times .

Then it was up to mandrem but we only stayed for a few hours as there was a huge wedding , hosted by a mumbai princess type of mother of the bride. What a rude woman bossing and ordering people about,  it was cringeworthy:-) staff and guests where sick of her running about like sinita stress head barking orders at people .

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video link

After here it was up to one of our favs , Arambol beach . Its cool to see the entertainment each evening at sunset when the beach takes on a new life to close the day , the ‘circus’ acts , the flea sellers , drummers on the beach . In excess of 25 drummers played for over 2 hours with people dancing in the circle . we didnt do the sweet lake or mudbaths today but you can see pics incl the banyan tree babas if you do a search for keywords on this blog [small search box on right of every page] . had a pink glass of tea followed by a couple of beers for sunset . a guy was setting up his mdf stage and gear for after the drummers , and a large illuminated heart was towering overhead .

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heres a gif from arambol beach

and a nice widescreen panoramic shot

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Later we did our shopping along the streets , theres so many low priced street stalls selling everything traveller might need from blankets to clothes , guitars to bongs , singing bowls to dreadlocks … its all in arambol .

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we ate along the way at shimon falafel , hes on the small junction of a road half way down the final beach section road bit , the one that goes downhill to the end . mean coffee and falafel . its all he does , been here years and really tasty and filling . he didnt do the ice cream shakes this year , did the oreo shakes tho .

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and finishing the night we headed to Coco Loco for their aptly named “funky night” hosted each thursday . Between 8pm-11.30pm it was great aretha james brown and goodness from disco , soul and mostly retro funk,  and later got more obvious music wise playing wild cherry,  gloria gaynor (which sent mince levels to 10), and daft punk get lucky that made em go wild. All in all a very fun funk filled mostly retro night,  cant say enough what a good party this is . loleatta holloway and dan hartman after a few party shots always hits the spot ! Cocktails are fresh fruit and strong. Pina colada and daq 250 which was reasonable considering some club nights . Had food here too. Brilliant night out tho with all sorts of randomness and individuals on the packed dancefloor like the camp indian,  the mma dancer, the ballet man,  the mime artist,  but best of all the indian travolta was just bonkers with all the JT authentic hip moves and farrah slacks. It seemd it wasa  magnet for eccentric individuals at times , good times as chic said . One of the most fun nights in goa. Fills up about 10.30 and closes 2.30am. the dancefloor was solid , and about 100r in on the door .

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On the way home we got a pull from the five-0 at 2am on chapora bridge. 3 cops pulled us and most others . one cop wanted id,  then passport, bike docs … basically just wanted an excuse for cash. it was ok i had all that plus idp and visa too lol he was snookered. I carry b+w copies. He said ‘original want, no good copies’ i said usually ok every year and flatly refused to play his games. Then wanted to look in bike thru bags . Asked ‘been smoking’ i laughed said nooo meeeee???!!!  he was curious what was in a small box and the other two gathered round . i grabbed it said i cant show , made him more curious. His mate held trunchon up and demanded ‘open’. I told him it was james bond stuff ,  opened reeeeeally slowly buzzing off them  and pulled out a silver shiny metal box and said nothing at all. They both looked at it but didnt know what it was. Then i said james bond and put it away. nobody spoke for a few seconds it was weird stuff haha . All it was was a usb powerbank .  They again asked ‘no smoking’ we said not us never officer honest, we where in stitches laughing . Strange they didnt mention no helmet or no drinking . God he could of thrown us in jail for any numerous reasons but then after five mniutes they let us go to look for an easier ‘no document’ victim. You just gotta play the charade game and be cool. We gave him a thanks and british cheerio and we where on our way .

what was even stranger was our clothing . see we hadnt planned to be out so late from the club so driving home was cold at 2am on the bike ,  eek problem !!  so we had to  improvise or freeze. i was in flip flops with camoflage shorts,  and put on the wifes way too small white and flowery jacket turned inside out (to stop it looking so flowery), and a folded beach towel stuffed under it to stop the wind on my chest. The towel was hung over my shoulders but under the jacket so looked like massive shoulder pads from the 80s!!  The mrs had a big beach throw with elephants wrapped round her like a burkha on acid. It was like something out of a movie , jonny depp in vegas perhaps . We looked like ridiculous space monkeys and enough to be arrested for that alone. Woke up with a hangover and the wife said i feel like im covered in soil. Only in goa, absolute top night on a day that just kept giving. [sorry we took no pics with the cops and its probably best god knows what we looked like or state we where in]

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if you want to see stacks of good pics videos drummers and people of arambol click on this link >

https://tharobster.wordpress.com/?s=arambol

arambol drummers and funky night video link :

 

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