goa dec13-jan14 : day 5 – redi lagoon maharashtra , camels n cops , squeeky sand , guru , sakana

breakfast apple porridge with honey , tea , espresso , local bread muffins , cornflakes , ginger watermelon mint juice no sugar = 320 at moon star north anjuna . they’ve even invested in a western toilet this year lol .

filled up the tank 307rps of juice for a big adventure back to redi beach fort and lagoon in southern Maharashtra. it not as long a hike now we can use this years new terekhol bridge . kinda almost cheating and will mean the end of this almost virgin beach spot soon .

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just after terekhol bridge the cops have set up a nice new outpost for giving you a pull , the boys in beige for Maharashtra state politely requested we show our licence, passport , visa number and bike reg and insurance docs lol , we said no we only have idp . he asked if i knew my passport number i said yeh , asked if we knew our visa number just started laughing . he said its very serious and ill need to pay a 200r fine. I explained I’ve never paid a fine previously and I won’t today . he got his big book of fines out to show me I must pay as everyone has to . I just said no and I’ll go back to goa if he wants . he treated us suspiciously and did ask lots of questions to us both like occupation , reason for travel , various things . he even got wanted posters out to show why they do it , to catch ‘these criminals’ . he was surprised we where English he thought we where Russian and his opinion lightened a bit . the mrs then led the convo in the direction of football and the Chelsea hat next to him . that was it he was Mr friendly then , and we had a good old gab about Fernando Torres , Suarez , and Messi for about 15 mins with him and his 2 sidekicks . its amazing how football unites us all ha ha . we then all shook hands like good old mates and where ushered on our way …. there was no fine . on another day im sure he might well have made us pay or do a u-turn . needed no helmet needed no nh17 or nh66 used . just great fun πŸ˜‰

we arrived at redi , the home of the fine powdery squeeky sand , finer and whiter than goa .

still a good adventure getting there but nothing like last years mission of going the long way round , illegally driving on the state highway by pernem for a few miles to cross a bridge with no helmet , and jumping multiple state border checkpoints etc . its quicker this time , but its less fun in all honesty as you miss out the cricket matches and flooded rice fields and random village life . remembered the same broken flag stone sign to turn down the track and get to the lagoon and fort part [see last years blog pics for maps and pics] .

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same guys are there to take you over the water

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still as nice as it ever was however , and you can have relaxing space and a whole stretch of beach to yourself .

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while we where there the tide dropped really low ,the lagoony bit emptied to a narrow channel

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along the inlet you can see lots of local fishing boats moored

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you can see how things have changed in one year with the new bridge and the lure of $ and RPS :
1 – a guy tried to hussle us for 20rps for parking our bike on public road where everyone parks same as last year . he got really aggressive about it for a few mins . he was only trying it on , but wrong approach completely and got told given a few F bombs .
2 – someone has built 2 huts on the beach to stay in
3 – someone has made a couple of benches with a roof and some chilled drinks . not exactly a shack but its heading that way .
4 – there where about five sets of a few people there , where there where only a couple last year . plus a few indians in the mini shack hut thing
5 – cops hussling on the bridge for backhanders

i guess its safe to say russians are crossing from northern beaches as it would only take 30 or 40 mins i guess from that area , as locals all seem to be acting like there are cash loaded tourists heading that way . even something bonkers too – middle of nowhereville and 2 guys with 2 horses , a carriage , and a camel came bouncing along the beach ??? a camel – seriously , near goa ? didnt expect to see that but like i said above , tourism has arrived in its infancy and brought with it camel rides . hmmmmm .

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there was even a coconut seller came along this time too , a bag of a dozen coconuts he would hack into and feed in a straw then come back 20 mins later and crack it open with the machete .

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usual birds where everywhere , but thankfully no goan crows yehhhhh , as funny as they are its nice to take a break from the racket

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the fort is still well hidden , just stealth bits barely visible . lots of pics from inside the fort are online from last year if you go back and want to see [use search ‘redi’ box top of page]

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after here we went further up past vengurla towards malvan for about another half an hour exploring round local villages and beaches and down the side of mountains ontp backwater remote rivers before we started to track back passing old houses on route .

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after all the travelling today we stuck local tonite and visited sakana Japanese in chapora for a great evening meal . had to be the japanese teriyaki steak again with miso soup , rice and the trimmings for me @ 490rps . Mrs had shitake noodles and veggie sushi rolls @ 150/200rps ish each . kingfisher was 80rps , and asahi 200rps a bottle. still the best steak I’ve had in goa . packed out as usual . nothings changed from last year – staff , food setting all same quality . must eat here for excellent Japanese . as usual it was busy with all tables full and a cool eclectic crowd in .

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after there did guru bar for evening drinks , they had a good bluesy rock band , then after that the same boring guitar player from the other nite called cliff yawn , everyone was nodding off to this guy playing the same snoozy set as 3 days earlier (except his mates who thought he was the bo!!ox lol)

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always remember to watch for cows going home at night , the are well camoflaged !

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